Permanent-waving the hair
Hairdressing industry accepted procedure
Written and donated by Mr D Dane FTTS MAE FRMS
(a respected Clinical Trichologist, Microscopist, Fellow and Past President of The Trichological Society)
addressing scientific and practical issues associated with the following hairdressing procedures:
Treating the hair chemically to produce permanent changes in keratin structure may alter the straightness or curliness of hair. These changes take place during either cold-waving or heat-waving. The permanent set so produced cannot be removed by water whatever its temperature. Artificial wave or curl remains permanently in the hair until it is either cut off or grown out. If a hair is not cut it will gradually grow further away from the scalp until that hair reaches the end of its growing period, then it falls out.
During cold-waving hair undergoes two separate chemical processes: i) reduction and ii) oxidation.
[ With the less-common 'heat-waving' systems normally only one chemical process is required (that of reduction). ]
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Perming is the name given to the physical and chemical process of permanently waving or curling hair. The common factor in all methods or systems of perming hair is that it is first softened by one means or other, made to take the shape of whatever it is wound upon and then allowed to harden or be brought back to its natural state. The physical part of the process involves winding the hair by one method or another around a curler (perm rod). The hair is then softened by chemicals (aided sometimes by added heat) and takes the shape of the curler around which it is wound. The degree of tightness of curl or strength of wave to which this process is allowed to develop should be that desired by the client, agreed upon in prior con- sultation with the hairdresser.
Since the chemical structure of the hair is being acted upon it is necessary for the hairdresser to understand and be fully competent in the practice of each of the techniques which together make up the procedure for creating the permanent wave, and the precautions necessary for the protection of both hair and skin.
The scalp : should first be carefully inspected for signs of infection cuts or abrasions or any pre-existing skin condition or sensitivity.
The hair : If there is any sign of abnormality of either the scalp or the hair, it should not be permed. If there is any doubt as to possible adverse effect of any previous treatment (dyeing, bleaching, perming, relaxing) it should not be permed. It is most unlikely that any adverse 'reaction' will arise from any medications that might chronically be being taken by the client but such a situation if existing should be borne in mind. The hair should be closely inspected for texture and condition and the history checked for any incompatible chemicals or other materials that may have been used on any part of the length, or may be coating the hair at any point.
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Strand Tests : It is always advisable to carry out two simple separate tests on small cuttings of hair beforehand by immersing half of the cuttings in 20-volume hydrogen peroxide made alkaline by the addition of a few drops of aqueous 'household' ammonia, and the other half in a small amount of the perm reagent to be used, leaving them to process for the intended normal processing time given by the manufacturer for that hair-type. If any discolouration or heating occurs with either sample the perm should not be proceeded-with. The tested cuttings should be checked for tensile strength. If all is well, the scalp and hair is then shampooed and prepared. The wet hair must not be stretched when combing it free of tangles. It is then sectioned: divided into neat controllable main divisions to enable the work to proceed with the minimum of wasted time and without the perm process being affected. These divisions are then further sectioned into sub-divisions upon which the curlers will be seated, the width and depth of which are determined by the texture of the hair and the curler to be used. The hair is then wound. Nowadays most
lotions may be applied after winding the hair with water, ie: using water-wind or post-damping technique (or indirect application).
Other lotions may require to be applied before winding commences, ie: using pre-damping technique (or direct application). In that case chemical 'development' or processing will by definition start by activity of the chemical from the moment of lotion contact with the first section of hair to be wound onto a rod, and the time taken to complete whole winding of the head of hair could very well have an adverse effect upon the eventual perm not only leading to the possibility of uneven development but potentially causing 'over-processing'.
Whichever method is instructed for use, the hair must never be subjected to stretching whilst wet.
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Winding is the process of placing meshes of sectioned hair onto suitable shapes and sizes of curlers so that the perming action may take place. The movement is a rolling or turning of the hair on to the curlers. The aim is to smoothly position and lock the hair points against the main body of the hair around the curler. The direction or angle from the scalp of the hairs in any section being wound is of vital importance. They should be kept as near as possible in line with the direction from which those hairs naturally emanate from the scalp. Over-direction here may lead to kinks being formed in hairs at scalp level with the possibility of breakage, or to a greater likelihood of kinking when fastening the hair upon the perm rods. Fine-textured hair is particularly susceptible to this form of damage.
Time : A reasonable time for a competent hairdresser to wind a full head would be 30 to 45 minutes.
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Point-wind technique : the hair is wound from the hair-points towards the scalp and then secured in position. To ensure correct winding, direction and positioning of curlers in the minimum of time - note the following important points:
a) comb sections of appropriately narrow depth (consider the hair texture and density) holding hairs parallel and without tension cleanly together, or pieces will slip and make winding difficult.
b) firmly hold the hair but do not stretch when bringing the hair points together at the beginning of the wind, or the ends of the hairs will become bent (fish-hooked).
c) with the end-paper properly positioned around the hair-ends place the hair centrally on the curler, or it will bunch on one side and be loose on the other.
d) horizontally widthways angle the curler to correspond with a right-angle to the position of the head. Hold the hair directly out from the head so that it will sit centrally on its base section. Keep the curler level as winding proceeds. Complete the wind, placing the curler in the centre of the section. The forwards-backwards angle at which the section is wound down to the scalp should never allow it either to drop below or to sit forward of the hair section as it comes near to the scalp, a common fault, or the wound hair could either rest on the skin between sections possibly resulting in chemical burns or sore or broken skin, or be forced 'forwards' possibly resulting in kinking of the hairshafts and subsequent breakage.
e) secure the curler carefully to prevent loosening but without pressing the fastener into the hair. Place a plastic pin under the (elastic) fastener to lift it off the hair. Bad curler fixing here could cause the hair to be marked (becoming bent or kinked) with the possibility of subsequent breakage.
f) modern cold-waving requires the hair to be wound evenly but never stretched, which could cause later hair damage or even breakage.
[ - with spiral-wind technique the hair is wound onto special bendy rods starting near the scalp wrapping the hairlength around the rod until the hair-points are able to be secured. Similar precautions apply. ]
End-papers or wraps are specially made as a perm-winding aid. The paper should overlap the smoothed hair points so the paper is wound first (this prevents fish-hooks). Some operatives use crepe fibres.
Curlers (or rods) used for cold perm systems are many and varied, different colours being used to indicate size. The tightness of the eventual wave or curl is not set by the lotion strength nor by the length of time required for that chosen strength to 'process' correctly. It is set by the rod size used. The bigger the diameter of curler used, the wider the wave produced and the softer the eventual curl.
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It can be seen that cold-waving consists of: shampooing, sectioning, winding, applying and processing a reagent on the hair, applying and processing that reagent's neutraliser or normaliser, and might then include an after-treatment of 'conditioning'. Reagents, more commonly called lotions , are made up for use on a variety of hair textures and conditions, eg: a) natural or virgin untreated, normal; b) bleached, tinted, or porous hair which must include those heads where a known part of the hairlengths has previously been perm-waved.
In all cases the operator should wear rubber gloves. Application of the reagent may be by use of a sponge, brush, or special applicator nozzle but in such a way that scalp contact is strictly avoided never allowing the chemical closer than 12mm (or ½") to the scalp. Perm-lotion is an active and dangerous chemical to skin and any lotion making accidental skin contact must be immediately swabbed-away with water-soaked cotton wool and obviously never applied such that it might run over the scalp, down the sides of face or neck or be held there by strip wool or towel.
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WARNING:
If with any technique, during the treatment the client complains of scalp burning or even of skin irritation, all chemicals should be washed thoroughly from both the hair and the scalp immediately and the treatment discontinued. This is an imperative duty of care.
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Processing :
a) at all times the manufacturer's instructions must be followed exactly.
b) frequent checks for sufficient curl-formation must always be made, and chemical removal made as soon as possible. The client must never be left alone whilst these active chemicals are processing, and the greatest caution and attention must be given regarding timing and the client's skin comfort.
c) the developing head of wound hair is best left to develop at ambient temperature unless otherwise instructed by the lotion-manufacturer. Close consideration should have been given to any sensitivity of the client's scalp (skin) before considering the addition of any heat to be used.
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Timing of Processing : Main processing consists of the activation of the perm reagent, causing the hair to expand, lifting the cuticle to allow it to penetrate the cortex. Chemical changes in the hair commence immediately upon application of the reagent to the first mesh of hair or wound rod of hairs to which it is applied. This includes winding-time if using the pre-damp technique and this time must therefore be taken into account . Total time of application and processing must NOT exceed maximum recommended time (manufacturer's instructions or guidelines). The timing of processing will vary with the individual head of hair, any previous chemical treatment it has received, the system of waving or the product used, the temperature of the salon, the texture of the hair, the thickness or depth of hair-mesh sectioned, the size of rod chosen and the method and care of winding. During this stage the processing must not be allowed to remain unchecked for more than 5 minutes unless directed by the instructions. It is prudent to check the progress of curl development every 3-5 minutes. The client should never be left unattended. At these regular intervals the hair should be checked by unwinding a curler from different parts of the head and noting the progress of the wave. When an S-shaped movement has developed (with neither too much spring nor looseness) it should be ready to rinse immediately , and to be normalised. Any delay here may cause the wave to either overtighten or to relax and the hair to become over-processed and de-structured.
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Hair texture: Coarse hair will usually absorb the reagent, be activated and complete processing quickly. Fine or greasy-type hair can be very resistant, hindering reagent penetration and taking longer. Bleached or tinted (dyed) hair or hair which has been previously chemically treated in any way will usually absorb the reagent very quickly. Manufacturer's timing guidance for textures or conditions MUST be followed.
Afro-Caribbean type hair : requires preparation, precautions and consideration of special dangers (see relevant product manufacturer). There are special products for safely producing curly perms on Afro hair.
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Room temperature has a marked effect on processing and therefore timing. If the salon is cold the process is slowed down somewhat. If hot, the hair is likely to process more quickly. The heat of the client's head is usually sufficient for most cold perm reagents to satisfactorily process all properly wound hair. Some perming systems or products require additional heat from a dryer or accelerator, in which case the wound hair would usually be covered with a plastic cap to prevent the chemicals drying-out. Since normal head-heat activates the reagent, padding around the curlers or hairline with cotton wool should not be done since the cotton wool would absorb any accidental contamination by reagent perm lotion causing it to be held in close and warm contact with the skin, which may then become painfully sore, chemically-burned or broken, and could later become infected. Furthermore any reagent on the scalp may cause hair breakage at scalp level where emergent hair is at its softest and most vulnerable.
This is what correct sectioning, winding and lotion application is designed to prevent.
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Washing : The active-chemical perm reagent or lotion has now 'softened' the hairshafts allowing their internal structure to accommodate all the tensions placed within them through having bent them around the rods. The chemical involved is usually ammonium thioglycollate, although some types of perms use glyceryl-monothioglycollate as an activator. In either case these chemicals will have penetrated to the centre of each cortex of each hair and must now be completely removed to prevent the hairshaft structure falling apart.
Thorough rinsing or washing-out of this perm reagent from the hair is necessary before applying the normaliser. All traces should be removed from scalp, forehead, neck and surrounding skin. Manufacturer's timing guidance regarding chemical removal should be strictly observed.
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Normalising : commonly called neutralising or rebonding, is a process which stops the chemical action of the hair-softening stage. Oxygen is used (in the form of a weak solution of hydrogen peroxide mixed with a thickening or foaming agent). With some systems special normalisers of sodium bromate solution may be supplied for use with that system's reagent. Surplus water should be blotted from each curler before normaliser application, to prevent dilution. Usually two-thirds of the required lotion is applied, spreading it onto each of the wound curlers (without disturbing the hair) and then leaving it, but for 5 minutes o nly . This strict '5 minute only ' period will prevent another form of over-processing - that by the normaliser where a different but further structure-changing chemistry will be active within the hairshafts. Again the manufacturer's guidance should be strictly observed.
Unwinding the curlers is then carried out gently, additional normaliser being applied to the freed points (ends of hairs) as this is done. Great care should be taken at this stage since undue tension on the hair may straighten the newly-formed curl. Remaining normaliser is applied to the now freed hair, gently worked through with the fingers and left for 2 minutes only before being washed off. Again - manufacturer's timing instructions should be observed.
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Final Washing : The hair is then again thoroughly rinsed to remove all normaliser from the hair, particular attention being paid to the removal of all traces of chemicals from the scalp, forehead, neck and surrounding skin. At that stage an anti-oxidant and/or a conditioner may be applied to the hair, restoring normal acidity of the skin (acid pH balance) to both the hairshafts and all involved skin, completing the process.
The permanently waved hair may then be set , or dried into style .
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Advice :
After-care advice should always be given to the client following chemical treatment to the hair. This should encompass daily care and grooming, regularity of washing, and recommendations and cautions as to drying measures and use of any product such as hair conditioner and/or hair-fixative.
© D Dane
Hair-sciences & Hair-specialisms - The Trichological Society
