Hairdressing Sciences

CURLY PERMING AFRO-TEXTURED HAIR
accepted procedure and chemistry

One of a series of articles in which Mr D Dane FTTS MAE FRMS
(a clinical trichologist, microscopist Fellow and Past President of The Trichological Society)
addresses scientific and practical issues associated with certain hairdressing procedures:

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The often-straight hair of Caucasians Asians and Orientals is cylindrical in length and circular in cross-section.   Although Afro or 'black' hair is chemically the same as Caucasian hair it has basic structural differences that make it look and act differently.   It is somewhat tape or ribbon-like in structure, that ribbon being concave down one side of the hair's length, the ribbon-like hair usually twisting this way and that.   These characteristics produce a natural curliness, sometimes very tight or sometimes less tightly depending upon inter-racial genetics.   This Afro hair-type calls for special care when being chemically treated and requires a haircare regime that thereafter keeps the hairs well-hydrated.   The use of a range of products is essential, including mild acidic cleansers that do not strip oils from either the hairshafts or the Afro scalp, with conditioners that have really good moisturising properties and contain detangling agents.

Chemical Treatments :

Although specialised treatments such as 'curly perming' 'straightening' or 'relaxing' make black hair more manageable and easy to control when carefully and correctly done, of necessity they all also reduce its natural tensile strength by at least 20% per treatment.   The greatest caution is therefore paramount.

There are two different main chemical processes to consider:

i)           that used for chemically ' Straightening' or at least loosening the natural Afro tightness of curl whilst leaving the hair able to later reasonably undergo a repeat of that process upon still existent previously identically-treated hair, ie: that had perhaps not 'grown out'.   The chemistry of this process is similar to and is compatible with and includes Afro-type 'Curly Perming'.

ii)          that used for chemically 'Relaxing' hair.

Importantly, these two main types of treatment are emphatically NOT compatible and if one type is ever applied upon hairlengths at any time previously treated by the other type - hair breakage will be the inevitable result .                

i) Curly Perms for Afro hair and the similar Hair Straighteners for Caucasian hair use thioglycollate-based products, and the chemical process is first one of reduction, then followed by oxidation .

ii) Relaxers however use a hydroxide and the chemical process is quite different, being one of hydrolysis.   Hydrolised hair leaves a permanent and irreversible change within the structure of each hair such that any later reduction/oxidation process undertaken upon earlier permed or straightened hairshafts would cause hair destruction (breakage)  and unless greatest care has been effected this danger could also include any part of hair that had previously only been 'relaxed'.

CURLY PERMS : make it possible to create different types of waves and curls on Afro and similarly ethnic hair.   Afro-textured hair is of course fundamentally different in its make-up from European hair, being naturally super-curly as well as being much rougher and more likely to become dry and brittle if not kept hydrated and properly conditioned.   Because of this naturally tight curl it has to undergo an extra process of straighteneng before a new wave-shape or looser curl can be achieved.   This process is known as 'pre-softening' or temporarily breaking down of the inherent tightness of curl to make it smooth and pliable.   This is not to be confused with 'relaxing' - which has a permanent straightening effect and, as explained, is a different chemical process altogether.

'Pre-softeners' for a Curly Perm contain active ammonium or glycerol thioglycollate.   This enters the hair cortex, where it breaks down the sulphur and hydrogen S bonds which link the natural hairshaft structure together, leaving as much or as little remaining linkage (slackening of curl) as is desired by the client.   After a short processing at ambient temperature a 'neutraliser' containing sodium bromate is applied to halt this straightening process.   After this has processed, it too is washed off.

A 'curl booster' is now applied as the hair is then wound onto perm rods of varying size to produce the looser curl.   Without this 'booster' the hair would revert to its naturally curly state.   The booster is usually in cream form containing buffers and conditioning ingredients that stick to the rough Afro hairshafts, as well as containing more but weaker yet equally active thioglycollate .   After very careful processing to the required degree this chemical is washed off and the hair is now given another 'neutraliser' to ensure that the new looser curls now stay in place, and to give crispness to the curl.   This is then thoroughly washed off, the rods are then removed and after further rinsing the resultant Curly-Permed hair is given a final conditioning treatment to bring the pH-balance down, and to give shine to the hair before being part-dried or styled.

The whole process should never be hurried.

The particular chosen perm manufacturer's Instructions must be followed to the letter at all times.

CAUTION:   Neither the pre-softener nor the curl booster should ever be allowed to come into contact with the scalp, or irritation even chemical-burning and breakage could result.   These chemicals should only be applied to hair beyond 1cm from the scalp, whether during the pre-softening stage or whilst winding of the booster onto perm rods.   The neutraliser, which is comparatively harmless, must of course necessarily come into scalp contact.

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NB:   Some manufacturers vary the required technique from that given above, incorporating a pre-softener into the booster process, thereafter having only one neutralising process - the prior-to-treatment hair-strand test, the chemistry principles and all necessary precautions remain the same .

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Prior to any application of Curly Perm chemicals by the hairdresser :

A hair-strand test must be carried out, as the client's body chemistry may have altered since any previous Curly Perm,   -   and to ensure that there will be no incompatibility with any product or treatment the client has applied.

If the hair has perhaps been weakened by blow-drying or tonging, a polymer pre-treatment should be applied to help protect it and to even out any undue porosity.

If no pre-treatment is indicated, the presented hair being judged to be in good strong condition down its full length, the hair should first be shampooed and conditioned to ensure removal of any pre-used product eg: oils.   Cool water should be used, massaging gently to avoid stimulating the scalp.

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After a Curly Perm:

The hairdresser should advise the client to purchase and apply a 'curl-activator' to be used to wet the hair each morning, and to shampoo using correct Afro-formulated products at least once or twice a week to prevent the treated hair dehydrating and becoming too brittle.

Advice should also be given as to hair Conditioning after each shampoo, to keep the curl-pattern intact.

©    D Dane  (refer to the author)

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Orthodox Hair-sciences & Hair-specialisms - The Trichological Society